Exosomes Are Having a Moment – But Do They Work?

Ingredient trends in skincare come and go – many endure, while others disappear as quickly as they emerged. Exciting, new skincare actives are often at the forefront of beauty innovation – a reflection of the dynamism of the marketplace.

If you’re a dedicated skincare user with a serious daily regimen, you’re likely using a face cream or brightening serum with Nianicamide. The multi-functional, antioxidant powerhouse first appeared in anti-aging face serums in the mid-2010s; its momentum is still going strong a decade later. On the other hand, Cannabidiol, or CBD, in skincare fizzled out within two years. 

This past year has seen the rise of several buzzworthy ingredients, including an intriguing new humectant, Ectoin, numerous growth factor and peptide technologies, and one ingredient that seems straight out of science fiction: exosomes.

Of course, the origins of exosomes aren’t rooted in the Enterprise’s holodeck. Instead, the mysterious active made its way into consumer products via dermatologists’ offices, following a similar path to retinoids – the gold standard in anti-aging.

What Are Exosomes and What Do They Do?

While new to the world of skincare, exosomes are actually native to cells of all kinds – from human cells to plant and animal cells. Think of exosomes as a type of biological messenger. 

According to Dr. Jen Haley, a board-certified dermatologist, exosomes are “basically little packages of information. Our cells, pretty much most cells in the body produce these packages of information that communicate from cell to cell. And cell to cell communication is really important because the body works as one unit. The skin is not separate from the brain. It's not separate from the liver or the kidneys or the heart. Everything is communicating all at once.” 

With a microscopic bubble-like structure, or vesicle, exosomes carry a payload of proteins, lipids, RNA and growth factors from the parent cell, delivering their package to adjacent cells. In doing so, exosomes help facilitate complex processes like wound healing, inflammation management and skin regeneration. Simply, exosomes tell your cells what to do and how to heal.

Do exosomes really work in a serum for face cream?

As exosomes have made their way into anti-aging face creams and serums, one question lingers: do they actually work when applied topically? 

To date, there is no substantive evidence that exosomes are able to perform their reparative magic on relatively healthy skin as, say, retinoids do. When applied to compromised skin, however, exosomes have been proven to accelerate skin healing post trauma or in-office dermatological procedures. 

Dr. Jen Haley, host of the Radiance Revealed podcast, has employed exosomes in her practice for this purpose for several years. “After laser, after micro-needling, when the skin is compromised, active ingredients are always going to penetrate better. So when the skin is compromised is when exosomes really have the ability to deliver messages.”

While studies are currently underway, in theory exosomes have potential to repair signs of skin aging. The exosome molecule is small enough – approximately 30 to 150 nanometers in diameter – to penetrate the skin barrier or be absorbed via hair follicles. Once absorbed, they can potentially deliver their messages, triggering skin-repair responses at the cellular level.

What are the natural sources of exosomes?

While much of the early hype around exosomes in skincare has centered on those derived from human stem cells, an intriguing new category is emerging: plant exosomes. 

Every living cell has the ability to release these nano-sized vesicles, including plant cells. Plant-derived exosomes are typically extracted from botanicals known for their antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, or regenerative properties. 

Common sources of plant exosomes include:

• Green tea leaves (Camellia sinensis) – coveted for their polyphenols and skin- calming benefit

• Grapes – rich in resveratrol, known for its powerful antioxidant properties

• Aloe vera – relied upon for its soothing, hydrating, and reparative properties

• Ginseng, rice, ginger, and even broccoli – sought-after for their beneficial bioactive compounds

Conclusion: Proof vs. Promise

Exosomes may be having a moment, but whether they become a mainstay in skincare routines, or fade like many trends before them, remains to be seen. Their benefits in a clinical setting are proven in practice;  but for now, exosomes in topical face creams and serums straddle the line between promise and proof.

Written by Carmine Montalto for NextGen Purpose

Carmine Montalto is a NYC-based copywriter, brand advisor, blogger and podcaster with 25 years doing what he loves to do – write. With extensive expertise in beauty across every category – skincare, hair care, body care, fragrance, makeup, men’s, and oral care – Carmine has helped build multiple consumer brands from the ground up.

Carmine uses his Skincarma blog and companion podcast to demystify perceptions about skincare. He leverages his extensive knowledge, experience and wit to deliver education on skincare products and ingredients, breaking down how to use them effectively to optimize your skin health. 

For the past three years, Carmine has been a judge in the annual BeautyMatter Awards in the product innovation category.